That Well-tailored Look

The best dressed men and women wear clothing that compliments the unique contours on their body.  This is because fitted clothing presents the natural body silhouette in the most flattering respect possible.  But body types are unique and vary in distinctive features much like houses on a street.  So it should come as no surprise that merchandise that is purchased off-the-rack almost never fits our body type as it should.

A tailor can make some effort to adjust these retail pieces, but only so much can be altered without completely disassembling and reassembling the garment.  The emerging market of made-to-measure clothing has a distinct advantage over something purchase off-the-rack, but even this intermediate option pales in comparison with true bespoke or completely custom tailoring houses.  A bespoke tailor will take over forty measurements of the customer's unique bodily shape before cutting an individual pattern and handcrafting a final product with the fit of a glove.  An added benefit of the bespoke experience is being able to choose whatever fabric and features are included in the final product.  With a commissioned bespoke garment, there is no fear of meeting another man on the subway car who is wearing the same Joseph A. Bank dark gray pinstripe suit as you.

Bespoke tailoring produces the finest fitting garments available, but with costs exceeding $1500 for a single suit, most consumers (like me) are unable to afford such luxury.  But I haven't given up on crafting a well-tailored appearance.  In fact, I have adapted my handcrafting skills to a new pursuit:  sewing and tailoring.

About a year ago, I began mending my own clothing. I could sew buttons back in place, adjust pant leg hems, and stitch together small seam failures.  Eventually I acquired a sewing machine and my projects grew to include more serious endeavors.  Soon I was taking in seams on suit coats that were a tad too large around my body.  A personal pet peeve of mine (long suit coat sleeves) was soon remedied.

But as I continued to yearn for a fitted and distinctive wardrobe, I finally undertook pseudo-bespoke projects.  I like to think I'm a legitimate bespoke tailor, but that would be a gross exaggeration of my ability and a insult to the real masters.  Regardless of my own grand delusions, this hobby permits me to build a well-tailored wardrobe without breaking the bank.

Starting with a concept of the final goal, I purchase all the raw materials and begin the process of making my own clothing from scratch.  My most recent project involves a double-breasted windowpane waistcoat with six buttons and shawl lapels (yet to be added).  Here are some photos of the process as it unfolds and begins to take form as a truly unique garment.

On first try it has a decent fit, and I know there is no other item like it in the world.  There is much work yet to be done, but I daresay it already has that well-tailored look.



As with all projects, they begin with a concept.

After taking measurements, a paper pattern is cut.

 

The pattern is used to help draw the chalk lines in preparation to cut the cloth.

After the cloth is cut, it's basted onto a canvas which is used to give the garment structure.

Next the edges of the fabric are folded over and stitched in place.

At this stage the two main panels are in their basic form.  Darts have been added to both
sides just under the fullest part of the chest.  You can see the yellow lines of the fabric pinch
together where the cloth is drawn inward.  These help create the shape that will follow
the contours of the wearer's body.

After basting on the back lining, I've tried it on for a first fitting.  At this stage, there are many changes to be made.  I will carefully mark and adjust all the seams to ensure a flawless fit.