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Pattern Drafting

It is difficult to overstate how integral the art of pattern drafting is to the process of handcrafting a bespoke garment, for a pattern defines the very first reference points that affect the balance and contours of the cloth. A well-drafted pattern will result in a first fitting that requires only minor alterations to the major seams and balance points. By contrast, a poorly-drafted pattern ultimately will require more complex adjustments in between each fitting to ensure an ideal fit. Correcting the mistakes of a poorly-drafted pattern requires far too much extra time and effort to make it worthwhile. Apart from being inefficient, with practice, such efforts are unnecessary.

Good pattern drafting depends on precise measurements and a keen understanding of the drafting system being used to convert those measurements into a drawing. In addition to taking the common measurements like the circumference of the chest, waist, and hips, I tend to take several direct measurements like shoulder width and wrist size. About 20 measurements are carefully applied to pattern paper, and seam lines are drawn by hand and with the assistance of rulers and french curves.

Note the egg-shaped armhole. This shape allows for maximum flexibility and movement.

After the pattern is drawn, the key measurements (e.g., chest, waist, etc.) are checked and rechecked to ensure accuracy and precision. The patterns are then cut and marked with the client's details. But before I set aside the pattern for cutting, I compare one of the most critical aspects of the pattern: the relation in shape and dimensions between armhole and sleeve. Any defect in the correlation between these aspects can distort the shape of the sleeve and shoulder area and the way that the sleeve hangs, thus resulting in a very unsightly appearance.

The sleeve patterns are laid next to the armhole.

When it comes time to lay the patterns on the cloth for cutting, I can be confident in the chalk lines that I trace, knowing that they are leading me toward a finely crafted jacket. I need only follow along with my needle and thimble.