Reclaiming Ivy League

 

I am not averse to wearing certain types of used clothing.  Thrift is a virtue, although I understand that some might not be able to tolerate the thought of donning another man's tailored relic.  Their loss, my gain.  I keep a particularized eye trained on two major elements of a gentleman's wardrobe in the used menswear market:  odd jackets and neck wear.  Sorry, I could never wear someone else's shoes.

From a business and professional perspective, suits ought to be well tailored and maintained in pristine condition.  As such, I generally buy them new and see that they are cared for.  They are much like the fine china of my wardrobe - show pieces brought out for the proper occasions and stored with exceptional care when not in use.

In cases where a suit is not required, odd jackets can afford a great diversity of pattern and detailing to the stylish man seeking yet a new dimension to explore.  My own collection is designed to add yet another element - condition.  It adds the appearance of depth to my wardrobe and there are often situations where I wish to chisel away from rigid formality to display a softer yet stylish comfort.

Today I brought out a recently acquired Brooks Brothers houndstooth sports coat for its inaugural use (on my back anyway).  It was used, well-used as a matter of fact.  But after dry cleaning and some minor repairs, it was ready to anchor my "Ivy League" inspired Sunday outfit.  With some delicate care, I hope to be able to breathe some life back into this classic piece.  It will be my own little reclamation project.

My favorite detail is not the houndstooth, but the working button holes.

Reaching Its Peak

Last week I sorted through my closet to clean out old or badly-fitting clothes.  You know, the kind of relics that I wore in high school (or even earlier).  There were some ghastly solid colored dress shirts that I wouldn't dream of slipping into now and I could find no alternate use for them either - save one.  It was a multi-blue striped shirt that I had been rather fond of until it started to fray and a few collar stains simply refused to abate.

It occurred to me that I might cut a pocket square from the retired shirt, and I did just that.  Because it's cotton, I'll have to be extra careful to be sure that it coordinates well with the material and texture of the jacket it adorns.  Warm weather and more casual occasions may prove an ideal adaptation for its employment.  And although it's unlikely that anyone will pass close enough to notice the detailing, if they do, perhaps the hand stitching will suggest a very well tailored appearance.  That would always be a plus.

A Hint of Gatsby

Having recently witnessed Baz Luhrmann's latest blockbuster film production The Great Gatsby, it was only a matter of time before the Brooks Brothers designed costumes influenced my sartorial equilibrium.  A spectacle befitting the extravagance of the upper society in the "Roaring Twenties," the big screen captured a wide array of fashionable attire of the day.  What F. Scott Fitzgerald neglects to detail in the novel itself, Luhrmann brings to life in the motion picture using his artistic license with a penchant for flair -- an image of just what exactly the major characters wear.

Nick Carraway (Tobey Maguire) was frequently seen sporting a smart bow tie, revealing his status as a young Yale graduate allured to New York City in search of opportunity.  It wasn't long before my eye settled on one piece in particular, and a small obsession was born.  As seen above, it was a beautiful burgundy bow tie cut with silver and black bar stripes matched flawlessly with a navy blazer.  Brooks Brothers included it in their "Great Gatsby" line of neck wear (unfortunately, I did not snag one before they sold out).  Still, like Gatsby's pursuit of Daisy, I shall seek to claim it as my own.  That's totally not weird at all.

But as you can see here, I used a similar necktie to experiment with the look.  Never mind the dumb pose.

Business Casual Is a Mistake

Whose work would you trust? GQ has some tips to make business casual better.

"Business casual is a mistake."  These are not the words of neck wear retailers or of yours truly.  This is the declaration of a senior partner in one of the nation's top law firms in her Litigation Journal article titled "I Don't Feel Your Pain:  A Partner's View of Associates."  As a young man aspiring to succeed in my professional endeavors (and upgrade my closet threads along the way), the senior counsel's statement captures my complete attention.

An associate at my firm shared the article with me because she thought that I would appreciate it.  And I sure did!  Writing from a partner's perspective, the author shared what are clearly some golden suggestions that any young associate ought to heed.  She went on to address a variety professional issues and concerns that she has noted among budding young lawyers including smart phone etiquette, time entry (billing hours), work ethic, and general professional communication skills.  But above all, one subheading dominated my ever-demanding curiosity:  "Dress for Success."  It pulled no punches for either sex:

"Business casual is a mistake.  The most successful partner I work with, a brilliant guy with a huge book of business, wears a suit and tie everyday.  He inspires confidence not just because he's a great lawyer but because he is an imposing figure. ... Women who dress like Barbie dolls get treated like Barbie dolls.  Bare is never the right look when you are in lawyer mode."

Simply stated, yet clear and precise.  The author also points out the obvious, an unkempt appearance will suggest poor organization and sloppy work.  You may look like a million bucks once or twice, but your bosses and supervisors will notice if you make a habit of careless or dirty comportment - and that won't help you.  If you wish to be successful, dress accordingly.