California Wedding

Last weekend, I had the good fortune of traveling westward to California (just outside L.A.) to attend a close friend's wedding.  The short weekend was filled with friends, cigars, libations, and of course the beautiful California sun.  Needless to say, weddings usually provide opportunities for daring dandies such as myself to sport bold patterns or powerful colors.  I knew that I was going to try to reflect some of the gorgeous sunshine in my wedding attire, but I wasn't quite sure how I wanted to approach the situation.

Although I had recently acquired a rather colorful madras sports coat, I found inspiration in a very attractive look that I had observed a little while back over at A Suitable Wardrobe; namely, the "California Tuxedo."  I adapted it to be a bit more formal, but it was impossible to resist trying out for such a perfect occasion.

As it turns out, my good friends have turned out well in the years since we finished undergrad and are worth their sartorial salt.  After copious amounts of scotch and a half-sober flight back east, here are a couple pictures that managed to survive:





The California Tuxedo.

A West Coast natural, complete
with a light gray glen plaid suit.

 

The only one among us with a hat.

His English accent will
distract from the rented suit.



Apart from the red wine spill on my trousers, the experience couldn't have been better.  We'll see what kind of magic I can work on that stain.





Reclaiming Ivy League

 

I am not averse to wearing certain types of used clothing.  Thrift is a virtue, although I understand that some might not be able to tolerate the thought of donning another man's tailored relic.  Their loss, my gain.  I keep a particularized eye trained on two major elements of a gentleman's wardrobe in the used menswear market:  odd jackets and neck wear.  Sorry, I could never wear someone else's shoes.

From a business and professional perspective, suits ought to be well tailored and maintained in pristine condition.  As such, I generally buy them new and see that they are cared for.  They are much like the fine china of my wardrobe - show pieces brought out for the proper occasions and stored with exceptional care when not in use.

In cases where a suit is not required, odd jackets can afford a great diversity of pattern and detailing to the stylish man seeking yet a new dimension to explore.  My own collection is designed to add yet another element - condition.  It adds the appearance of depth to my wardrobe and there are often situations where I wish to chisel away from rigid formality to display a softer yet stylish comfort.

Today I brought out a recently acquired Brooks Brothers houndstooth sports coat for its inaugural use (on my back anyway).  It was used, well-used as a matter of fact.  But after dry cleaning and some minor repairs, it was ready to anchor my "Ivy League" inspired Sunday outfit.  With some delicate care, I hope to be able to breathe some life back into this classic piece.  It will be my own little reclamation project.

My favorite detail is not the houndstooth, but the working button holes.

Reaching Its Peak

Last week I sorted through my closet to clean out old or badly-fitting clothes.  You know, the kind of relics that I wore in high school (or even earlier).  There were some ghastly solid colored dress shirts that I wouldn't dream of slipping into now and I could find no alternate use for them either - save one.  It was a multi-blue striped shirt that I had been rather fond of until it started to fray and a few collar stains simply refused to abate.

It occurred to me that I might cut a pocket square from the retired shirt, and I did just that.  Because it's cotton, I'll have to be extra careful to be sure that it coordinates well with the material and texture of the jacket it adorns.  Warm weather and more casual occasions may prove an ideal adaptation for its employment.  And although it's unlikely that anyone will pass close enough to notice the detailing, if they do, perhaps the hand stitching will suggest a very well tailored appearance.  That would always be a plus.

A Hint of Gatsby

Having recently witnessed Baz Luhrmann's latest blockbuster film production The Great Gatsby, it was only a matter of time before the Brooks Brothers designed costumes influenced my sartorial equilibrium.  A spectacle befitting the extravagance of the upper society in the "Roaring Twenties," the big screen captured a wide array of fashionable attire of the day.  What F. Scott Fitzgerald neglects to detail in the novel itself, Luhrmann brings to life in the motion picture using his artistic license with a penchant for flair -- an image of just what exactly the major characters wear.

Nick Carraway (Tobey Maguire) was frequently seen sporting a smart bow tie, revealing his status as a young Yale graduate allured to New York City in search of opportunity.  It wasn't long before my eye settled on one piece in particular, and a small obsession was born.  As seen above, it was a beautiful burgundy bow tie cut with silver and black bar stripes matched flawlessly with a navy blazer.  Brooks Brothers included it in their "Great Gatsby" line of neck wear (unfortunately, I did not snag one before they sold out).  Still, like Gatsby's pursuit of Daisy, I shall seek to claim it as my own.  That's totally not weird at all.

But as you can see here, I used a similar necktie to experiment with the look.  Never mind the dumb pose.

Business Casual Is a Mistake

Whose work would you trust? GQ has some tips to make business casual better.

"Business casual is a mistake."  These are not the words of neck wear retailers or of yours truly.  This is the declaration of a senior partner in one of the nation's top law firms in her Litigation Journal article titled "I Don't Feel Your Pain:  A Partner's View of Associates."  As a young man aspiring to succeed in my professional endeavors (and upgrade my closet threads along the way), the senior counsel's statement captures my complete attention.

An associate at my firm shared the article with me because she thought that I would appreciate it.  And I sure did!  Writing from a partner's perspective, the author shared what are clearly some golden suggestions that any young associate ought to heed.  She went on to address a variety professional issues and concerns that she has noted among budding young lawyers including smart phone etiquette, time entry (billing hours), work ethic, and general professional communication skills.  But above all, one subheading dominated my ever-demanding curiosity:  "Dress for Success."  It pulled no punches for either sex:

"Business casual is a mistake.  The most successful partner I work with, a brilliant guy with a huge book of business, wears a suit and tie everyday.  He inspires confidence not just because he's a great lawyer but because he is an imposing figure. ... Women who dress like Barbie dolls get treated like Barbie dolls.  Bare is never the right look when you are in lawyer mode."

Simply stated, yet clear and precise.  The author also points out the obvious, an unkempt appearance will suggest poor organization and sloppy work.  You may look like a million bucks once or twice, but your bosses and supervisors will notice if you make a habit of careless or dirty comportment - and that won't help you.  If you wish to be successful, dress accordingly.

Come on Man!

Just prior to Game 4 of the Eastern Conference Semifinals, Miami Heat star Dwyane Wade entered the arena dressed in a double breasted polka dot suit.  I understand that NBA basketball players tend to wear colorful, ostentatious, or "loud" outfits that--in another decade--might constitute Elton John's wardrobe for an evening performance.  And I suppose the Rocket Man and today's modern hoops stars can both be classified as entertainers, so maybe it follows that the legends can wear whatever they like.

Maybe Wade stole these pants from Nate Robinson.

But judging by the reaction of the Inside the NBA halftime team, even this gaudy superstar might be guilty of the occasional faux pas.  "Sir" Charles Barkley reacted to Wade with his trademark expression "Come on man" before declaring that "Miami Heat are the worst dressed team in the NBA."  And Shaq agreed.  Ouch!

Wade's accoutre is not intrinsically offensive, but it is better suited (no pun intended) to a much more casual setting.  That said, I could never do the tight pants.

Dinner at the Great Hall

Lawyers are often known for dressing well, as their business suits and attire are important investments for client meetings and appearances in court.  Of course, not all attorneys are finely fitted specimens of sartorial splendor - it really is a mixed bag.  My limited experience has revealed that Washington, D.C. professionals are among the best dressed in the country, and perhaps it comes as no surprise given the city's prestige in the fields of government, politics, and law.  But even among D.C. lawyers, there is a noticeable disparity among the thread-clad legal eagles.  I know because I traverse our nation's capitol in search of the best-dressed attorneys.

The hardcore socialites remain.

And so I found myself dining last night in the "Great Hall" (the main corridor leading up to the Court's Chamber) at the U.S. Supreme Court Building.  The event was hosted by an Appellate Inn of Court to honor the retiring Clerk of Court, General William Suter.  A few of the Justices mingled and Solicitor General Verrilli offered some remarks about General Suter's impressive career, noting many of his life experiences (including his encounter with a young Elvis Presley at Fort Hood in 1958 - which proved influential in turning around the young Rock 'n Roll star's career at that time) and even went so far as to suggest that General Suter was the inspiration behind Dos Equis' ad campaign featuring "The Most Interesting Man in the World."

It was a surreal experience as I gazed about the room, studying the marble busts of all the former Chief Justices, the coffered ceiling, and the adjoining oak-paneled conference rooms.  As a regular spectator of oral arguments before the Supreme Court, I had been here before, but during such times, we were quietly herded from one point to the next with German efficiency.  To begin the evening, I had been seated at the check-in table, greeting the guests and, of course, studying every detail of the gentlemen's attire.  After being seated for dinner, I occasionally strained to steal a glance about the dimly lit room in search of the best-dressed man (but without appearing rude to the company at my table).  But Frodo had it easier, as the room was full of well-polished, high-profile appellate attorneys from both the Department of Justice and private firms alike making it very difficult to identify a candidate.  And it was in that moment of cerebral jaw-dropping when I concluded that appellate attorneys were perhaps the finest-dressed advocates in the legal profession.

Appellate courts were established to handle appeals from the decisions of lower courts and thus they are both influential and binding.  These gentlemen routinely argue cases before such courts and afford them a great deal of courtesy.  This respect is not limited to their calculated remarks, but to their conduct as a whole, including appropriate dress.  It is their custom to begin the presentation of oral arguments with the humble supplication:  "May it please the court."  What these gentleman wear is not dispositive to the legal issue(s) at hand or helpful in explaining why a lower court's decision is a particularly egregious misapplication of the law.  But, at a minimum, an aesthetically pleasing outfit conveys due respect for the court and an apprehension of the gravity of the situation at hand.

Although not a universal rule, it is clear to me these members of the Supreme Court Bar are frequently the best-dressed advocates that I have encountered.  It's quite simple really -  their manner of dress is a manifestation of their awareness of the immense privilege that they enjoy in arguing before the highest court in the land.

And that's the way it should be.



Courtroom Camoflauge

Today I had the good fortune of attending oral arguments in the Court of Federal Claims surrounding the long standing litigation over the infamous A-12 Avenger stealth fighter that never really was.  The program to develop the carrier based stealth fighter was cancelled in 1991 before a single prototype was ever completed, and the case has been tied up in litigation ever since.  The legal dispute has scaled up and down the courts system (even reaching the U.S. Supreme Court on one occasion) but it continues to elude final judgment.  It's mind-boggling to think that this case has been around most of my lifetime!  It is much like a real Jarndyce v. Jarndyce as featured in Dickens' Bleak House. 

My firm represents one of the parties, and our lead counsel has been on the case from the very beginning when the complaint was filed in the early '90s.  I was asked to help prepare for the argument over the last couple months so naturally, I had to witness it for myself.  But because of the high profile nature of the case, I knew I would be perhaps the only non-lawyer in a room full of highly accomplished advocates.  My goal was to blend into the scenery, so I opted to wear a solid navy suit, plain white dress shirt with ordinary button cuffs, a quiet gray striped tie, and dark brown oxfords.

In the end, it proved an excellent choice.  Most of the attorneys wore their powerful pinstripe suits (as I suspected they might) with brightly colored ties and cufflinks.  The best-dressed man in the room was easily Charles Cooper - a Southern gentleman (with a smooth accent to match), former clerk to Chief Justice William Rehnquist, and former U.S. Assistant Attorney General under President Reagan.  In addition to his well-tailored gray pinstripe suit and his perfectly coordinated red necktie, I made note of his custom cufflinks which featured the name of his law firm "Cooper & Kirk."  My presence in the courtroom was for purposes of my own legal erudition, but with the added bonus of a polished gentleman well-versed in the art of sartorial gentility.

Admittedly, I was aware of Mr. Cooper before today, as he had worn a bow tie while presenting oral arguments in defense of Proposition 8 before the U.S. Supreme Court this past March.  As my wardrobe choice suggested, I was not present at oral arguments to make a statement or impression, but to learn.  I am happy to report that I was able to blend in with my surroundings and absorb every detail.

Roll 'em Up

In my line of work, there are plenty of projects that require a bit of good old fashioned elbow grease.  Last week, one of the attorneys referred to such a project as "arts and crafts," but it's not quite as cute as it sounds.  Juggling hundreds of pages of documents on a deadline necessitates a smooth operating environment, and my preference for a long sleeve dress shirt & tie occasionally risk unwanted interference.  Roughly 50% of my work involves tasks that require physical exertion, organization, or review of some nature.  As with most any wardrobe choice, I find myself in search of a balance between style and practicality.

At first, I rolled them when I was handling a "rush" project or when the weather was warm.  But now, even when I'm not under pressure, I roll them up as a subtle fashion statement.  It downplays the formality of the tie and confirms (if there was any doubt) that I came ready for work.

Educate Yourself

I still don't know what Pinterest is, but it was kind enough to share this helpful little "Collars & Cuffs" primer.

How Often?

No organization here.

About once every week, I take a few minutes to sort my tie racks which have been picked through and scattered about like $5 DVDs in a Walmart bin.  Each morning I put on my shirt and slacks before grabbing a handful of potential ties and playing some sort of elimination game until I'm satisfied with the final selection.  At the end of the day, these ties are draped over the most convenient rack.  It just so happens that this rack generally features my bow tie collection, and thus my daily habit inevitably tends to obscure them.

And this just simply won't do because I've made a conscious decision to wear the bow ties more often.  But having long indulged this desire on the weekends, I hope to begin employing this policy during the workweek.  The only question remaining in my mind is:  how often?

To serve as a reminder of my new
objective, I will keep these in plain view.

I think this question really depends on stature.  Being only a couple years out of college, I cannot claim to be a well-established professional like Winston Churchill or Justice John Paul Stevens who possessed the necessary gravitas to wear it nearly everyday.  Conversely, there is hardly any prohibition against my wearing it frequently.  In the search for a reasonable balance, I have decided to start by sporting the stylish neck ornament about once a month.  I think it will be a modest yet sophisticated approach, which in my mind is the goal.

The Father – An Ideal Teacher

Long before his Ivy League days, JFK learned
to dress from his father.

It is well-established that children are ideally raised by their biological parents as the distinct, yet complementary strengths of a father and mother are best suited to apply unique and positive influences upon a youth in a stable framework throughout his development.  Beyond the more serious disciplinarian measures that prove necessary, parents often impart a variety of beneficial skills, expertise, and wisdom to their children.  A parent can offer insight through the use of accumulated experience that no youth could reasonably possess themselves at such an early age.  And while both parents contribute to the rearing of a child, there are certain subjects that are best communicated between father and son, and mother and daughter.  We can observe a prime example of this sort of relationship as a father teaches his son gentlemanly virtues.

A gentleman is composed of many well-cultivated habits, not the least of which is a commensurate cultivation of stylish apparel.  The father who has acquired the mark of a gentleman can teach his son from a young age how to dress well.  The instruction can manifest itself in any variety of ways, but given his position of authority, a son is likely to trust his father who is far advanced in wisdom and experience.  Through a lifetime of experience, a father has learned good rules of style to follow, and bad practices to avoid.  He will have witnessed changing fashion trends over several decades and can discern the enduring patterns from the whimsical.

Before a young boy is even conscious of deliberate style, a father can shape the habits and wardrobe of his son.  The father exercises the greatest influence over the formation of his son during the critical years leading up to adulthood.  Thus, he is the ideal teacher in the art of sartorial eloquence - a art that indeed communicates a powerful message of discipline, virtue, and tradition.

Reasons to Wear a Tie - Color

 

 

If I could make but one criticism about today's business fashion culture, it would surround the general absence of neck wear.  Its future in the corporate dress code is uncertain, for in the midst of our contemporary cravat-less business casual policy, there has been a significant increase in necktie retail sales.

There are many reasons to encourage the use of neck wear during the work week, so I thought I would post them as they occurred to me (in no particular order).

With the cherry blossoms in bloom and temperatures over 70 degrees (F), spring seems to have arrived here in D.C.  The warm sunshine begs more for abundant use of color, especially colors that are not ideal for shirting or trousers.  Springtime is a season of renewal and refreshment, and a necktie can proclaim it.

He is Risen! Happy Easter!

Tradition Lives: At the Supreme Court

It is a relatively obscure fact that the Solicitor General of the United States and his deputies wear a morning coat while presenting arguments before the U.S. Supreme Court.  The Solicitor General is appointed to represent the United States before the Supreme Court in all cases that involve the federal government.  In this role, he and his subordinates appear in nearly 2/3 of the court's cases each term.  The morning coat is part of morning dress which is formal attire for daytime use.  Oral arguments are almost always presented in the morning (and occasionally in the afternoon), making morning dress the appropriate formal attire - as opposed to white or black tie which is reserved for wear after 6:00 pm.

In this sketch of Deputy Solicitor General Michael Dreeben,
we can easily detect the trademark buttons and coattails.

It is interesting to note that during her tenure as the first female Solicitor General, Elena Kagan was not known to wear the coat.  Some interpreted this as a personal choice that signaled here intention to break with tradition, but there is really no support for such an assertion.  Besides, the morning coat is proper daytime formal wear for men and not women.


Acting Solicitor General Neal Katyal demonstrates
that he has high class to match that high IQ.

Whether the Solicitor General traditionally wears a matching waistcoat and pinstripe trousers, I cannot say.  When I have visited the court, it was too distant to tell.  And although I had the pleasure of meeting the current Solicitor General, Donald B. Verrilli, I neglected to ask him.  To be sure, it's a question that I hope to resolve in the future.

Setting these trivial details aside, the use of the morning coat denotes its clear purpose:  formality.  It also speaks to the level of respect that the solicitors have both for their office and for their duty to the highest court in the land.



Gentlemen, This Is Business

A little while back, a friend of mine who was just becoming familiar with the AMC hit show Mad Men suggested that the central male characters were excellent examples for other young men aspiring to dress in classy and traditional manner.  At the time, I had watched all five seasons, and I embraced the proposition.  In point of fact, I always paid close attention to the casts’ wardrobe in the hopes broadening and sharpening my personal style.  With the premiere of season six set to air on April 7th, I was reminded of my friend’s observation.  But now, I am in wholehearted disagreement.



Nothing says "business" quite like
Don's unimaginative uniform.

When I think of the likes of Don Draper and Roger Sterling, I don’t observe stylish gentility, I see business.  There are arguments to be made about the historical authenticity of the show, as drama television tends to exaggerate things.  What is not questioned, however, is the authenticity of the portrayal of the of the early 1960’s business fashion.  Just prior to the height of social turbulence and upheaval, the characters in Mad Men exhibit the preceding cultural mandates of conservatism and homogeneity.




The look we all know and love - but
we know it all too well.

Much like the Helvetica font that they used in advertising, dark suits and plain white shirts presented a clear yet neutral appearance with no intrinsic meaning.  The substance of the message was to remain the ultimate focus.  As men’s fashion expert Alan Flusser noted concerning the 1950s, “typical businessmen literally hid behind his gray flannel suit.”  By crowding out creativity and expression, men’s business fashion had become a discipline and not
an art – a uniform in the ranks of commerce.



Such is the scene in which these advertising executives find themselves.  Even as the show progresses, viewers will note the central male characters wear virtually the same outfit every day at the office.  Roger wears his dark three piece suit, Don his plain gray suit (and of course a fresh white dress shirt from the stash in his drawer), Pete with some shade of dark blue, and Bert Cooper with his bow tie.


If they all look the same, that's because they are.

And yet, for as daring as their advertising campaigns proved to be, their dress habits possessed no comparative virtue.  It exemplified a plain style with a plain message:  “Gentlemen, this is business.”

An English Sunday

With plenteous sunshine and temperatures nearing 60 degrees (F) this morning, I decided to pull out my favorite herringbone tweed jacket for perhaps the last time before spring officially arrives.  Its color is most suitable for use outside the city, and I thought that my leisurely stroll to Mass through the backstreets of my suburban neighborhood constituted a perfect surrounding as the trees are still brown and bare.  I've found that tweed is quite commonplace inside a Church during the fall and winter seasons, making it all the more appropriate.

Layered underneath is a mushroom cable knit cardigan vest that provided a bit of extra warmth for the outdoor walk.  The navy silk knit tie was inserted as a change of pace from my ordinary neckwear.  And in an effort to sneak in a subtle rebellion against the typical white dress shirt (which I wear enough during the week), I substituted an off-white button down oxford shirt.  Nothing too radical, mind you, as I wanted to maintain the tweed jacket as the center piece in this ensemble.

All of this is supported by some gray wool trousers and penny loafers which I am currently breaking in.  Taken as a whole, my outfit had a very English feel to it, and I like that.  Perhaps I'll have a spot of tea and watch some Yes, Minister episodes.

Dress Appropriately for the Office

 

Casual can be stylish too.

I suppose it’s most appropriate to begin this blog with a basic outline of how I prefer to dress and why.  After all, as I suggest in the description of this page, it is accomplished with a particular purpose in mind.  However, I must be very clear that my personal style is something that develops with each passing day.  It really wasn’t something that I paid much attention to until my junior year in college and, at that time, I lacked resources to develop my narrow wardrobe.  But in the past year, my employment has given me both the capital to invest in worthwhile clothing and the venue to practice my newfound pursuit of stylish professionalism.

As with most workplaces these days, my firm has adopted a "business casual" policy which permits a range of options including polo shirts and khakis.  And yet, my office also makes clear that "[t]raditional business attire is always acceptable, if that is your preference."  And indeed it is.  Of course, "business casual" is a poorly defined term with varied meanings.  But the chief identifying characteristic that sets the two guidelines apart in my office is the necktie/open collar variable.  I almost always wear a tie, and this choice places me in the traditional category as opposed to the casual one.

I have intentionally adopted a "traditional" approach to style, as opposed to some of the many other types out there ("trendy," "hip," "white trash," or otherwise).  It is representative of many of the values that I espouse: order, beauty, creativity, and gentility.  And while there are many reasons that I choose to adopt a classic style, the most important threshold motive lies in the enjoyment that I derive from it.  If I found no pleasure in the practice, then I would certainly abandon it.

Over the course of the last year, many people have asked me why I choose to wear the tie and "dress up" in the manner that I do.  It was clear to them that I relish the opportunity to wear a suit (typically when I’ll be appearing before a court) and I avoid the khakis, polo shirts, and tennis shoes that appear around the office.  It was never a hostile question, but its frequency compelled me to consider the subject on a deeper level, beyond the simple aspiration to "look good" or dress appropriately for work.  My answer was never the same.  It seems to me that there are many reasons to dress well, and few to discourage it.

 

One of the most fundamental canons of good style states that to dress well, one must dress for the occasion.  And while it is acceptable to wear very casual clothing to work, I prefer not to set the bar so low (at the minimum).  Of course, style cannot be forced upon anyone, but it often reflects an individual’s attitude toward his occupation.  Traditional business attire is professional and entirely appropriately for the workplace.  It says something about you. Thus, it should speak well of you.